Description: ANEBODA wardrobe with extra shelf, space for belts and ties, metal file dividers on top, and other MIKAEL features.
Basically, I wanted to incorporate the space-saving features of the MIKAEL desk (discontinued and replaced by the inferior MICKE) into my aging, wobbly ANEBODA. This is how I did it (in about 2.5 hours), while making the ANEBODA a much more solid piece of furniture.
1. If your wardrobe is as old as mine, no doubt the back has already fallen off (or is just hanging by a thread). We’ll get to fixing that later. If it isn’t off, remove it; it’ll make all these steps easier if you can access the inside from both the front and back. We’ll put it on later with wood glue so we won’t have to worry about it ever coming off again.
2. Brace the wardrobe with the 6 shelf brackets. Do two at the top back and 4 on the bottom. Use wood screws size #6×1/2. Don’t get the largest size brackets as they will interfere with your shelf placement. For example, if you want to put a shelf 8″ from the bottom, don’t get 12″ brackets.
3. Place the wooden shelf on the bottom section just above the brackets.
4. My file frames came from an office that was going to throw them out. You can get yours for cheap from the link above. Each set has 2 metal stands, so it works out to about $1.50 to $3 per stand depending on where you get them.
If the file frames stands are attached to metal bars, you need to unscrew them.
5. Grab a pencil and step on a stool or ladder so you can easily see the top of the wardrobe. Measure back about an inch from the front. Giving yourself a couple inches from the left or right edge, mark every 2 or 3 inches. If you plan on putting files and folders up top, do 2″. If you think you want to put binders up there, do 3″ or 4″.
6. Using the appropriate sized drill bit for the file frame screws, drill at each of the marks.
7. Now we’ll make our file dividers from the frame stands and metal bars. Take the metal bar that goes from one side of a frame stand to the other side of the same frame stand. These are going to go underneath the top of the wardrobe to hold the file frame stands in place and help us find the correct distance for drilling the back row of holes.
Put the bolt through one end of the metal bar and through the hole you drilled. Place the file frame stand upside down on the top and thread the bolt through. You shouldn’t need a nut for the bolt as the file frame stands are typically already threaded.
8. Once one side of the bar and stand are secure, we can secure the other side really easily. Making sure the bar is aligned straight, draw a mark through the bar’s bolt hole into the underside of the top of the wardrobe. Rotate the bar out of your way and drill through the mark. Now you can secure the other side of the bar and stand to each other. Do this for all the bars and stands.
9. Use a ratchet to really tighten the bolts as much as you can. Once done, up top you’ll have metal file dividers, and underneath you’ll have a bunch of metal bars that are good for hanging little things via small hooks; like jewelry, keys, etc. Also good for holding notes/bills…
10. Properly secure the back of the wardrobe for added stength. On their own, the nails it came with easily rip the backing, fall out, and bend. Instead, apply a line of wood glue all the way around the back edge, then nail the backing back on.
11. Add a shelf for extra storage. Armed with my measuring tape, I went to the As-Is section of the IKEA warehouse. I found an 18″x30″ AVSIKT glass cabinet door in perfect condition for $10. The ANEBODA shelf is actually a tiny bit larger than this, but 18×30 will still fit… though just barely. Use bolts or screws or extra IKEA hardware (my local IKEA store has a random hardware bin by the As-is area) to rest the shelf on.
Keep in mind that adding an extra shelf means you won’t be able to hang long garments like dresses in this thing.
12. Be even more efficent with space. Add the FLANG hooks to the inside of the doors, and the wardrobe sides (both inside and out) for hanging ties and belts.