More kitchen storage without drilling into tile backsplash

TallCindy·
Kitchen
··8 Comments
Saved putting holes in a tile backsplash.
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Materials: BYGEL bars, BYGEL s-hooks, BYGEL containers, GRUNDTAL shelves, LÄMPLIG trivet

Save putting holes in your backsplash and add shelves and pockets in front of it.

Attach Bygel bars into the underside of top cabinets. The LÄMPLIG trivet add a nice finish to the bars and give storage options, paired with the BYGEL containers.

Screw Bygel bar directly in front of cabinet backing.
Saved putting holes in a tile backsplash

kitchen storage 2

TallCindy
Latest posts by TallCindy (see all)

8 Responses

    1. The reason I did not use the GRUNDTAL rail because I wanted to AVOID drilling into a tile backsplash. The BYGEL seemed better to hang from the underside of my cabinets. I thought the GRUNDTAL would take up too much room, and not allow for the GRUNDTAL shelves to be able to stabilize against the backsplash.

      Reply

  3. Thank you! I couldn’t tell if it was solid wood or just veneer. I don’t know if particle board was the correct term as far as mine are concerned though -they’re made of whatever ikea cabinets are made of as well I think, just another manufacturer. Best case scenario -mdf? Still not as sturdy as wood though, so I think I’ll but the idea on hold. Thanks for your replies!

    Reply

  4. Hi Bani,
    One thing I failed to mention: My cabinets are custom solid maple cabinets with a cherry stain. So it is going into solid wood, not particleboard. I don’t know how much weight particleboard will hold and I doubt it will hold up as well.
    As for attaching, I used #8×3/4″ screws, without pre-drilling. I tried a #10 screw, before running back to the hardware store for the #8. The #10 x 3/4 needed to be pre-drilled and didn’t go in as smoothly. But again, I have solid wood cabinets.
    The 3/4″ screws did not go all the way through my cabinets. Between the bracket and the thickness of the cabinet, 3/4 worked. If the bottom of the cabinet is particle board, you may want to rethink or reinforce.
    Good luck.

    Reply

  5. Stupid question for anyone who has drilled “upwards” into their kitchen cupboards – do you just drill a bit or do you drill straight through? If you just drilled part of the way, how sturdy is it, i.e. how much weight can the screws bear? And if you did go all the way through, how did you cover up the screw ends on the inside of the cabinets? I’ve been thinking of doing this and would prefer not to go all the way through the cupboard base but I’m not sure if I’d actually be able to hang anything of something that’s only fixed in a little bit of particle board. There looks like there’s quite a lot hanging on the Bygels in the photographs though! 🙂

    Reply

    1. Bani,
      Not sure why it isn’t showing my reply…
      But I will answer again…. My cabinets are custom solid maple, not particle board.
      I used #8×3/4″ screws, but that is through wood. Particle board probably wouldn’t hold up.
      On Solid wood, #8 screws did not require predrilling. I tried #10 screws and they didn’t go into the wood as easily into the bracket and needed a bit of pre-drilling.
      Good luck.

      Reply

    2. Looks like this post has actual wood on the underside of the cabinets. If you have particleboard, you’d have to go all the way through. Get bolts with flat heads and push them through from the inside of the cabinet, the secure the rail with nuts.

      Reply

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