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How-to: Easy shelf reinforcement for Billy shelves

Contributor·
Hackers HelpHow-to
·10 Comments·1 min read

As hacks go, this is an inexpensive solution to a common problem. Billy bookcase shelves have a reputation for sagging. It’s easy to strengthen the shelves with this hack. How much more weight can the shelves bear? I don’t know, but mine were holding full and even double-shelved text books with no problems.

Tools:

  • Hacksaw or metal cutting blade of some sort
  • File to smooth the cut ends

Materials:

  • Aluminium “U-channel” strips from the local home improvement store (One 8-foot strip can stiffen three 30-inch shelves.)
  • Billy bookcase or other shelves you want to reinforce.

Steps:

  1. Take a shelf with you and buy a channel that snugly slips over the shelf edge.
  2. My Billy shelves used 3/4 inch channel, but test before you buy.
  3. Cut the channel into pieces about 6 inches shorter than your shelf.
  4. Use the file to smooth the rough edges on the cut ends.
  5. Slide the channel over the back edge of the shelf, center it, and place the shelf on the pegs.

reinforcement for Billy shelves

~ Tsu Dho Nimh

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10 Responses

  1. I bought 3/4 inch u-track at Lowes. It was a very tight fit over the shelf. I used 2 crescent wrenches to spread the track at one end and the tapped the track onto the shelf with a rubber mallet.

    Reply

  2. Does this solution work if you want to mount oxberg doors as well? I mean do the shelves stick out so as to prevent mounting?

    Reply

  3. This was my submission:
    To those concerned about “cheaping out”, and cutting the channel too short, we discussed full-length versus slightly shorter but less wasteful lengths, and did the engineering calculations. Chandru is right. The unsupported 3 inches at either end are insignificant compared to the 24 rigid inches in the center.

    Reply

    1. It’s perhaps also worth pointing out that if you had the aluminium channel the full width of the shelves, you may have difficulty sliding in the back section. Leaving it 10-15mm short at each end means this isn’t an issue.

      Reply

  4. Cutting the channel short is Bad Advice. Cut them the full length of the shelves. Toss the 6″ length of leftover C channel. You cheaped out to start with when you bought an MDF product, don’t cheap out as well on “fixing” it.

    Of course by the time you do all this, you might as well have just bought the Hemnes solid wood bookcases to start with.

    If you must buy Billy bookcases, stick to the narrowest versions. The shorter an MDF shelf is, the less likely it is to sag. You can’t even attach a support rail for the shelves to the back of the bookcase because the backing is basically cardboard.

    Reply

    1. Bypassing MDF doesn’t necessarily cure a sagging problem. A combination of hardwood and shelf design is needed, which is difficult and expensive to come by in practice. Heaven help you if you want style with that. The expense gets quickly out of hand the more shelving that is required.

      The Hemnes shelves are made from pine wood. At this moment, I’m staring at a pine wood book-case, constructed exactly like the Hemnes, which is sagging. Finished soft wood shelving isn’t worth the money in my opinion. Reinforced MDF is fine for cheaper shelving, or pay the money for hardwood imo.

      Reply

    1. My guess is to to save on the number of aluminum strips to buy. One 8-foot strip = 96 inches. If you cut into 30-inch pieces, you have a 6-inch piece left over. If you cut into 24-inch pieces, you have four pieces and no left overs. Also, you only need four pieces because the center shelf is not removable.

      Reply

      1. Actually, if you know about mechanical stress, the highest is at the center, tapering to zero at the very ends. So it’s most important to reinforce the center; leaving a short gap at each end makes no difference.

        Reply

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