1. If you want to direct wire- cut the cable. See where the mounting screws are in your light box. If they’re at the top and bottom (like mine was) you’ll have to rotate the base of the light. I also cut the pull cable off.
2. Loosen the nut at the base of the white cord. Then use lots of muscle and torque to rotate the arm of the light. The small screw holes should be at the top and bottom of the light instead of on the sides. I stepped on the light’s arm to get proper grip.
3. Prep for spray paint. Tape off the socket. I also taped the two larger holes (cord and pull cable) from behind. I just spray painted over the tape. I recommend getting some rubber plugs for these holes instead. I used Rustoleum Antique Brass. Don’t forget to spray paint the little screws that attach the light to the mounting plate.
4. Drill a hole in the mounting plate to put the cord through. Use a drill bit designed for metal. The hole should be big enough for the cord, about .25 inch.
5. After the spray paint was dry, I applied black shoe polish to the whole light, making sure to get in the grooves. Then I buffed it off. It makes a pretty big difference.
6. Mount and wire the light. Don’t forget to turn off the circuit breaker at your junction box. I suggest wrapping the cord with a couple layers of electrical tape so that the sharp edges of the drilled hole in the mounted plate doesn’t cut through the cord’s insulation.
7. For the traditional barn light shade I drilled a hole in the FÄRGRIK ceramic plate. I used this 1 inch ceramic drill bit ($6 on Amazon). The 1 inch bit was a little too small so get a 1.25 in one or you can work at the hole after it’s drilled to make it a little bigger. I drilled a hole in the center of the plate from the back (so to not scratch the front). Don’t push to hard and take breaks to spray with water because it gets very hot!
8. The plate is sandwiched between the light and the plastic white washer that’s included with the light. I finished off the look with an emerson bulb.