Hacker help: How to attach laminate flooring to Pax?

Jules Yap·
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Back on June 13, 2008, someone posted a piece about using Pax wardrobes as a room divider (Bedroom series #5: Room dividers for your bedroom).  My daughter wants to do this, but I’m not sure how to attach the laminate flooring to the backs of the cabinets.  Is there any way to find out how this was done?  Thanks.

~ John

Jules Yap
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12 Responses

  1. John,
    Since it’s been 6 months since you originally posted this question, I am curious as to whether or not you were able to find a resolution. Were you able to successfully attach the laminate flooring to the cabinets and, if so, how did you do it? I am considering overlaying kitchen island cabinets with laminate flooring and any info, how-to’s and tips you could offer would be tremendously appreciated! Thank you!

    Reply

  2. Sorry for the two different comments, I thought my first one didn’t post so I made a second =S

    Reply

  3. The way i would do it is measure it out with the laminent pieces, then cut the two end pieces accordingly, apple liquid nails or maybe even some heavy duty double sided tape and stick the two end pieces where the belong the I would fill the gap inbetween with the remaining laminate ( without adhesive) As long as the end pieces are firmly in place the interlocking laminate should stay firmly in place without any additional adhesives applied. So if you need to remove it youll only have to worry about the end pieces and there are ways to make those stay without being permanent. Just my thoughts

    I might be attempting it soon.

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  4. I was wondering this as well since I originally bought a birch PAX system and later decided on a grey laminate flooring, Wondering what i could do to make it more neutral and having way more laminate than I need I thought i would measure out the laminate for the side that i want to change, then put the two end pieces on first with liquid nails something of the sort then fill the gap in between with the rest of the laminate without adhesive. Hopefully the rest of the laminate will stay in place since it interlocks. Idk just my idea hope it was some help. you could always use something else for the end pieces as well. But at least you would only have to worry about detaching the two end pieces.

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  6. If you want something that could be taken apart again you could attach Velcro to the flooring, then attach matching Velcro to the back of the PAX. But I’m betting it would be hard to get things perfectly straight that way.

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  8. You could attach the flooring to 4×8 sheets of thin plywood or fiberboard and then attach the sheets to the Pax with trim or caulk. It’s always easier to assemble things on the ground.

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  9. As I can see, the hacker used L-aluminium profiles at the borders. So it would be easy to get in place. They will be screwed at the small border and not so visible then removed.

    Reply

  10. Liquid Nails or No More Nails for a permanent installation. 100% silicone caulking for a solid, but removable installation.

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  11. I’ve been thinking about this for a similar project. I don’t want to use something as permanent as an adhesive. A number of the laminate/flooring options I’ve been looking at have a tongue and grove locking mechanism, being designed for floating floors, no nails, no glue, etc. However in the applications we are considering the flooring is vertical and not horizontal. I was thinking, at least for my project I might be able to get by with prodigious use of double-sided carpet tape, the tongue and grooves, and with sturdy edging it could work. If permanence is not really a variable I would go with a good construction adhesive.

    Reply

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