The original picture lamp need two modifications, 1) the base needed to be rotated 180 degree and 2) the lower part of the lamp arm needed to be straightened out.
In its original IKEA design, the lamp arm has two bends; one an approximately 45 degree at the base and one 90 degree bend close to the lamp screen. The 45 degree bend is to be straightened out.
1. Unscrew the two Philips steel screws holding the mounting bracket fixed to base.
2. Unscrew the two small Philips screw for the black plastic cover.
3. Pull out the small PCB
4. Cut the two wires going from the PCB to the lamp arm, about 10 mm from the PCB.
5. Use the ½” socket and a large flat screwdriver to unscrew the nut holding the lamp arm the base. The two small wires will go through the socket. Remove the nut and lock washer.
6. Pull out the lamp arm.
7. Put the lower part of lamp arm in the vise. To minimize scratches, use aluminum protection jaws and a layer of thick cardboard. Tighten the vise until the lower part of the lamp arm is more or less straight. Be careful not to damage the threads at the end of the lamp arm.
8. Put back the lamp arm into the base, now 180 deg rotated compare to the start position.
9. Put back lock washer and nut, tighten with the socket and large screwdriver. The wires goes through the socket.
10. Put the two small pieces of shrink tubes on the wires coming from the lamp arm.
11. Strip the end of the four wire ends.
12. Solder the wire ends, red to red and black to black.
13. Slide over the shrink tubes and shrink them with the heat gun.
14. Put back the PCB into the holder.
15. Put back all cables as it was from the start.
16. Close the black plastic cover with the two screws.
The base is made of a wooden lid to a kitchen glass jar from IKEA 360+ series. The lid is used upside down, the recessed top surface is used to hide a 4 mm steel plate to give the base more weight to improve stability.
Any other base can be used as long it is sufficiently heavy. My combined base of wooden lid and steel plate weighs about 0.8 kg.
I used the IKEA lid as it was easily available, nicely shaped and low cost. My first idea was to use a marble slab 100x150x15 mm, but it difficult to find in my neighborhood.
1. Remove the silicone gasket.
2. Drill 4 nos. 4 mm holes in the corner of the steel plate.
3. Countersink the holes with a 8 or 9 mm drill.
4. Place the steel plate in the recess of the lid and mark the holes. Pre-drill holes with a 2 or 2.5 mm drill. Be careful not to drill through the lid.
5. Attach the steel plate to the base with the four screws (3.5 x 11 mm).
6. Turn around the base, and mark out the position of the mounting bracket. Pre-drill holes with a 3 mm drill.
7. Spray paint the base in your favorite color. I used black fast drying spray paint.
8. Attach the mounting bracket to the base with the two screws (4.2 x 19 mm).
9. Attach the four self-adhesive protection felt pads to the base.
10. Attach the lamp base to the mounting bracket with the two Philips steel screws.
If you have a garage / workshop you can cut the steel plate yourself, then you need a angle grinder with cutting and grinder discs.
The Piano lamp is now ready! I used total 3.5 hours including the time to cut the steel plate and paint the base.
And here are some photos of the ready Piano Lamp:
I hope this hack will help some create a nice and affordable Piano lamp!
Jules Yap started IKEAHackers.net in 2006 as a personal blog to showcase the most impressive IKEA hacks from all over the world. Since then, she has learned a lot more about power tools and DIY. Her site has helped thousands modify IKEA furniture with step-by-step tutorials, craft projects and home styling.