Hackers Help: Fix broken Spar on MALM Chest?

Jules Yap·
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As you can see in the attached photos, my MALM drawers have developed a broken spar. (I have to presume through transportation when we moved house).

Fix broken Spar on MALM Chest?

Items:

malm 6 drawer dresser
MALM 6-drawer chest | IKEA.com

My partner did a bodge fix by putting white tape around it, but it naturally stays in a bent position now. I will be asking if I can get a replacement spar from the workshop next time I’m in IKEA.

Fix broken Spar on MALM Chest?

My question is, is it possible/ is there a method to replace this spar without having to take the majority of the unit to pieces?

We are intending to update the furniture in our bedroom and my step-daughter will be receiving the drawers, I’d like for her to have it complete, rather than with the broken spar as it is now.

Thanks everyone.

~ by Steve Passmoor

***

Hi Steve

Yes, with my method, you can attach the new spar onto the dresser without dismantling the whole thing. You’ll just need to remove the drawers. If you do get a new spar from IKEA, just ditch the screw and dowel — secure it with 2 small L-brackets.

I have the same problem with my MALM 4-drawer chest. Here’s a video of how I fixed it.

The steps to repair a broken spar are:

  1. Measure the length and height of the spar.
  2. Cut a piece of scrap wood according to the measurements.
  3. Remove the existing hardware from the MALM dresser.
  4. Attach a bracket on each end of the cut scrap wood.
  5. Screw scrap wood onto the MALM frame.
  6. Done!

Related: Adding this furniture wrap to the MALM changed everything

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Jules Yap
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7 Responses

  1. Hi,

    first of all, remove the tape – that will never endure and it’s the wrong tool for the job. Align the piece properly (use a guide and clamps) and fix it to make sure you reinforce it without angle.

    I’d suggest using something like this: https://goo.gl/images/wjGamF which you should find in almost any DIY market in the wood working section. Get two and place them on the larger sides opposite each other and screw them into the spar. Make sure you stay far enough away from the splintered part and take care not to hit a screw you already put in from the other side.
    Cheaper would be to use 1-2 pieces of wood (another spar, plywood, 2×4, ..) instead of the metal braces/strong ties. This should work as well, might not look as neat and could be an issue if the spar is close to other pieces of Malm (meaning you can’t put an inch of additional wood between the spar and whatever piece of Malm is next to it).

    Good luck!

    Reply

    1. I’ve just used white plastic trunking across the entire width to act as a split over the original break. It works a treat and great value at £3.50?

      Reply

  2. Alternatively, you can use a tie plate to properly reattach the two parts of the piece (link to example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-1-13-16-in-x-5-in-Tie-Plate-TP15/100375260 ). I would use two, actually, each one at least 4 inches long. Put them on opposite sides of the piece (so one on the front and one on the back, or one on the top and one on the bottom), and offset them so their screws don’t interfere with each other. You can paint everything white afterwards and it won’t be very noticeable. If you can’t access the back to screw a piece on you can use wood glue and clamps to attach a piece of wood across the break to achieve the same thing.

    Reply

  3. Looking at the assemble instructions online, it appears that to correctly replace this piece you would have to remove one entire end panel, which would be difficult as the other spars are all attached with a special screw and a dowel. You might even damage other pieces doing this. I think you are better off using L-brackets (AKA corner braces, right angle braces) to attach the replacement piece. It will require some awkward positioning when you are adding screws but should be fine. I would finish breaking the piece that is there now, and pull each end of it towards the center to remove. Remove any screws or dowels still stuck in the side of the dresser. Add corner braces (either use two per end, or use one with 4 total screw holes per end, to prevent spinning) to the cross-pieces first, making sure the screws you are using are not too long, otherwise they will go all the way through the wood. Then screw into the side pieces (that’s the awkward part). Pilot holes are always a good idea.

    Reply

  4. The sparrs have literaly no function. Just tear them out (it works with brutal force). Replace them with a slat of the same dimensions two steel angles and screws and paint it white. This will do. I just removed them. Looks like is supposed to be like this in the first place.

    Reply

  5. Using IKEA hardware to assemble, it doesn’t look like you can do it without:
    Loosening the cam locks for the top
    Loosening the cam locks for the front of the outside panel
    Pulling the front of that panel out
    Replacing your spar
    Putting everything back.
    Assuming that you nailed everything the way you are supposed to, and DIDN’T glue the dowels (I generally glue them on permanent pieces that get screwed to the walls now, Billy and Sektion mostly)

    If the dowels are glued, or you are really committed to doing this without disassembling:
    The spars don’t look structural, you can pull the old one out in two pieces
    Install the dowel and cam lock on one end of the new spar
    On the other end, use a pocket hole jig to allow you to install it without prying things apart, just be very careful with placement and alignment. (google kreg pocket hole jig). One pocket screw on the other end should hold it, but not super strongly (which should be OK… again not structural).

    You could also just re-enforce the existing one with a board and 6-8 (or more) screws. Then touch up the white on the front (maybe tape all the way across?)

    Reply

  6. I’ve had this happen on kitchen cabinets. If you can get to the sides you can replace the broken piece: since it’s not visible so you could just use a normal piece of wood (which might also be stronger).
    If you can’t get to the sides you can screw a mending plate (or maybe two) over the break to reinforce it.

    Reply

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